Surfing
Stories, photos and bits of culture
Chapters: Scott Hulet and his Omnibus Flow Violento
When I heard Hulet was working on a book a few years ago, I was super excited. As I read the book, Scott's use of language and ability to build the texture of the scene is pure mastery. This work belongs in a higher realm, but it’s not; it’s meant for us.
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SKIP FRYE MODEL REVIEW FROM THE SURFERS JOURNAL ARTICLE 2017 ISSUE 26.4
Skip Frye says of the shape,“I was shaping behind Select making a board for Jeff Grennan and I shaped a blank too thin. I came out and presented the shaped blank to Jeff and he asked what it was. I said I don't know but its thin man, The name Thinman stuck."
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Behind The Scenes: The Skip Frye Quiver from The Surfers Journal
Skip Frye took them into his shaping bay, showed some surfboards, laughed with Pez about some fun old stories and I could see Skip letting down his guard. He walked the guys through his storage unit and they looked at dozens and dozens of boards asking questions. Soon it came time to deliver 'the ask.'
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Tavarua Island: How To Land The Boatman Gig
Tavarua Island in Fiji has one of the worlds most in demand jobs, well, for surfers anyway. The title of "Tavarua Boatman" is as coveted as it gets. Read on to learn how to land this once in a lifetime job.
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Leroy Grannis and the Print
Oh hell yes… there is an email from Leroy Grannis. My heart rate jumped up as I opened the email. “Sorry I don’t sell prints anymore” the letter said, “I have a book deal i’m working on and legally I can’t sell them anymore.”
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Tavarua Island Will Change Your Life
As I was driven across the channel I was already feeling like I was seeing things and losing consciousness. As I was dropped off at the nambila boat launch, I remember seeing heat trails and was starting to hallucinate and eventually blacked out.
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Life And Death At Little Makaha
"I saw the second wave was already standing as tall as a city street light. I didn't make it. It threw out 20 yards in front of me, top to bottom. I remember letting out a laugh because it was so ridiculous. How the hell did I get in this situation? I just got out here for fucks sake. This was going to be bad and I knew it."
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