Creative Writing Dump

Baja Or Bust: Youth vs. Reason

by Kenneth Lewis 9 min read

Chapters: Scott Hulet and his Omnibus Flow Violento

by Kenneth Lewis 2 min read

chapters creative writer flow violento podcast scott hulet steve pezman surf surfer surfer magazine surfing the surfers journal writing

When I heard Hulet was working on a book a few years ago, I was super excited. As I read the book, Scott's use of language and ability to build the texture of the scene is pure mastery. This work belongs in a higher realm, but it’s not; it’s meant for us.

Chapters: Episode One with Bob Merson

by Kenneth Lewis 1 min read

I met with Bob at his house in Oceanside to take a look around at the many treasures that live in his small, backyard surf-shack. The soulfulness of the area shows his love of all things surfing.

SKIP FRYE MODEL REVIEW FROM THE SURFERS JOURNAL ARTICLE 2017 ISSUE 26.4

by Kenneth Lewis 8 min read

history san diego san diego surf culture Skip Frye surf history surfboard history surfers journal Surfing

Skip Frye says of the shape,“I was shaping behind Select making a board for Jeff Grennan and I shaped a blank too thin. I came out and presented the shaped blank to Jeff and he asked what it was. I said I don't know but its thin man, The name Thinman stuck."

Behind The Scenes: The Skip Frye Quiver from The Surfers Journal

by kenneth lewis 11 min read

san diego skip frye steve pezman surf history surf story surfboard history surfers journal Surfing

Skip Frye took them into his shaping bay, showed some surfboards, laughed with Pez about some fun old stories and I could see Skip letting down his guard. He walked the guys through his storage unit and they looked at dozens and dozens of boards asking questions. Soon it came time to deliver 'the ask.'

Grom Memory: Surf Movie

by kenneth lewis 4 min read

Eyes forward, laugh along and follow the crowd.

Check.

After what seemed like an eternity, the lights finally dimmed. The sounds of 20-30 beers cracked simultaneously. The movie started to an uproar of cheers, funny insults for no reason and then settling into a low chatter.

Tavarua Island: How To Land The Boatman Gig

by kenneth lewis 5 min read

boatman fiji surfing tavarua

Tavarua Island in Fiji has one of the worlds most in demand jobs, well, for surfers anyway. The title of "Tavarua Boatman" is as coveted as it gets. Read on to learn how to land this once in a lifetime job.

Leroy Grannis and the Print

by kenneth lewis 5 min read

history Leroy Grannis surf history surf photographer surfing

Oh hell yes… there is an email from Leroy Grannis. My heart rate jumped up as I opened the email. “Sorry I don’t sell prints anymore” the letter said, “I have a book deal i’m working on and legally I can’t sell them anymore.”

Tavarua Island Will Change Your Life